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pr0ph3t
13 september 2005, 19:41
hoi,
maat van mij rijd met een mazda MX5. een 1.9V6 16v. nu de vraag is welke olie moet daarin? ik weet al wel dat het synthetische is maar welke vloeibaarheid ? iemand enige idee? :)

Thnx

Dirkxke
13 september 2005, 19:44
morgenvroeg iets na 9 eens even naar een mazda garage bellen kan al optie bieden, googlen kan ook al een oplossing bieden, eens inde handleiding kijken kan ook een oplossing bieden...

google:

So you want to learn more about your MX5, but you've never done any work on it before? An oil change is the best way to start. You don't need many tools, it's quick, and you can save yourself some money by not paying mechanic rates! Oil changes are fundamental to good maintenance, and offer a great opportunity for bonding with your little car. Oil changes should be performed every 5-10,000kms depending on your driving style.

* You will need: 19 mm wrench or socket/rachet if you have a 1.6 engine, 17mm if you have a 1.8.
* A 4 litre pack of oil. 10W-30 will cover almost all temperature ranges. Some people use a 5W-50 Synthetic. (The type of oil to use is a personal preference and a discussion in itself!)
* Mazda oil filter. The genuine Mazda MX5 filter is recommended due to its good construction, and you can get this from your local dealer. (The type to get is another discussion point).
* Drain pan This can be as low tech as a mixing bowl, or buy one from places such as The Warehouse, Payless Plastics, or Repco. Make sure it holds 4 litres!
* Funnel Cheap suggestion? Cut the top off a 2 litre Coke bottle and use that. You can buy cheap sets of funnels from the above stores also.
* Something to hold up the car. Axel stands or ramps are good - Don't use just a Jack! It may be possible to do this without lifting up your MX5.

* Optional: Kitty-sorb or kitty litter for cleaning up spills
* Cardboard for catching spills. A large flattened box works well
* A torch or good light. Helpful when you're looking for something
* New washer for the drain plug. Not necessarily needed every time, you can reuse it. Mazda dealers have these.
* Rubber dishwashing gloves. Protects you from hot and dirty oil and gives you a good grip on the filter.
* Filter wrench. Not usually necessary, but may be if the filter has been put on too tight by the last person.
* Disposable nappies. Some people use these to help absorb oil from the old filter change!

1. Get the oil warm.
It doesn't have to be at full operating temperature - that's actually a little painful! If you can't touch the engine, you won't want to touch the oil. It's possibly going to run down your hand, wrist, arm and end up in your armpit. The hotter the oil, the more likely it is this will happen! Warm oil will drain a lot better than cold, however.

2. Get the front of the car high enough.
You'll want to raise it so that you can slide your drain pan underneath. On some MX5s, that's pretty simple. On other lowered models it can be a serious challenge.
Ramps work well - you'll feel better if you have someone to watch whilst you drive up. If you know how to slip a clutch just inch your way up, hanging out the drivers door and looking at the front wheel. Or you can use a jack and axel stands. You could also simply use the MX5 jack to raise each front wheel and put a couple of planks of wood underneath the wheels (not bricks, as they can easily split or slide out!) - that should be high enough to get your drain pan under a normal height mx5. Make sure there's no way that car will roll or slip off whatever is holding the front up (put the handbrake on, and leave it in gear). Do not work under the car whilst it is just being held up by the jack!

3. Put something under to catch the drips.
This is not by any means compulsory, but will keep your garage floor or driveway cleaner. Some people use big sheets of cardboard, or an old sheet. This can also make it more comfortable to wiggle around and work under the car.

4. Find the oil drain plug.
When you look under the car, you'll see a big flat plate of plastic at the front. Behind that, in the center of the car, is a ribbed See the oil drain plug under the oil pan. plate made of aluminium. That's your oil pan, and it should be warm to the touch if you followed step 1. There's a big bolt sticking out of the edge on the driver's side (RHD models) which is your oil drain plug.
Still not sure? Then follow the dipstick tube (where you check your oil level) to the oil pan, then look for a 17 or 19 mm plug in the pan.

5. Undo the drain bolt.
Loosen the drain plug bolt with your 17 or 19 mm socket/wrench, then begin unscrewing it anticlockwise with your hand. (Remember 'righty tighty' and 'lefty loosey'!) It should turn without resistance unless someone before you stripped it. Use your index finger to keep the plug pushed up against the drain pan while you unscrew it with your thumb and middle finger. Once it is fully unscrewed, quickly move your hand AND THE PLUG out of the way and let the oil stream into the pan. Watch out! When this comes out, the oil will follow. It won't just oooze straight down, either, it will arc out to the side and it will be hot! Try to aim the drain pan so that it catches the arc. The key is to not drop the plug into the pan - unless you like to stick your hand in 4 litres of warm oil and fish for it. Some drain pans have a little grille in them so that this is not a problem.
The oil pees into the drain pan.

6. Open the hood and undo the filler cap.
(A picture of the filler cap is further down the page) Oil will continue to pee out of the drain pan for a couple of minutes. The longer the better.

7. Remove the filter.
This can be a real pain in the butt, depending on who put it on last. It's the most likely step to give you problems. The filter is hidden down at the side of the engine, on the driver's side. Look under the intake plenum (the big cast aluminum "pipe" beside the top of the engine), The filter is shown under the intake plenum. Note it may be a different colour however! and you should spot the filter below it. It will be the same shape as the filter you bought to replace it with, but the colour will depend on who did the last oil change. (OEM mazda ones are usually black.
If you can't reach it from above, try turning the wheels all the way to the left and reaching up through the wheel well. The dishwashing gloves will give you a bit of extra grip on the old filter.
Sometimes you may find that a filter wrench is necessary to remove the filter, if has been put on really tightly by the last person. Club member Howard Weir suggests the 'K&D Universal Filter Wrench', available from Repco makes the job a breeze. It fits a 3/8 ratchet handle with a 50mm extension.

8. Drain the filter.
When you do get it off, it's going to drop oil all over the place. Turn it so the hole is at the top as soon as you can, then throw it in the drain pan to empty. They hold a lot more oil than you think!. Wipe the mess off the side of the engine, including the pipe the filter attaches to (Some people just knock a hole the in the filter, drain it into a bowl, then unscrew in order to contain the mess).
Another suggestion is to use a disposable nappy and stuff it up around under the filter when you unscrew it. The nappy will absorb the oil really well.

9. Pre-oil the new filter.
Fill it up with new oil, and let it absorb into the filter. Repeat. This is optional, but should cut down on engine clatter when you start the car up again, and make you feel better. Put a bit of fresh clean oil on the rubber ring around the edge of the filter, and screw it in to the side of the engine. Hand tight is fine, and you should not use any tools to tighten it. The gloves will come in handy again to give you grip.

10. Put back the drain plug.
Put an optional new washer on the drain plug, and screw it back in. You don't want it coming loose, but you're also not trying to set a world record. Get it snug, but DON'T strip it. You should'nt put it back with out a washer though as it may drip oil.
Fill through the fill hole and don't forget to replace the filler cap when you've finished!

11. Fill it with oil.
Using your funnel, pour about 3 litres of oil into the fill hole at the top. (Don't do this until you've replaced the drain plug in step 11!) Check the dipstick. Now keep pouring and checking until you've got the right amount in place. Put the filler cap back on when you're done.

12. Clean up.
Put kitty-sorb on any spills, and pour your old oil into a container that's labelled. Use an old coke bottle, oil containers or something similar. Take it to a garage and ask them to recycle it. Some garages have recycle containers that you can pour it into, but not all.

13.Go for a drive!
Check the oil later to make sure the level is right, and top it up if necessary. There! You just bonded with your MX5, and it's happy for another 5,000 Kms or more.

lttuvix
13 september 2005, 19:44
Mazda Dexelia Oliƫn van Total zijn speciaal ontwikkeld om aan de eisen van Mazda motoren te voldoen. Dexelia Ultra 5W30
olie met extra lage viscositeit is alleen verkrijgbaar bij uw Mazda dealer.

(edit eerste link op google als je Mazda MX olie intyped)

Burny
13 september 2005, 20:10
Kijk in de handleiding van uw wagen, dat is het veiligst. Daar zul je een tabel vinden, met welke olie het best, afhankelijk van het klimaat en het gebruik (veel korte ritten of juist alleen lange).

xW30 lijkt me te weinig (niet viscoos genoeg als em warm is). Ik doe Castrol magnatex 10W40, gelijk in het boekje staat.

pr0ph3t
13 september 2005, 23:50
dank voor alle reply's ;) we zijn er wel wat mee opgecshoten ^^